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As the final medley of checkerboard outfits had walked Burberry‘s high line runway, where two musicians were playing on an elegant grand piano, Riccardo Tisci had this to say: “I’ve been reflecting about my time in London when I was a student. London gave me my freedom - and my confidence.”
Burberry ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2020.
© Gorunway
To underscore the message, the show was titled 'Memories', which drew on the designer’s experience at Central Saint Martins and trips to India in the 1990s.
This has been the refrain since the Italian designer became Burberry’s chief creative officer two years ago.
The British background in Burberry’s world is complex, starting with its founder Thomas Burberry in 1856.
A brown leather coat with a big furry collar opened the 108 piece show.
© Getty Images
Tisci continues to make an impressive number of stylish tailored coats and jackets, occasionally more sporty or streetwise. That is especially true of menswear, which perhaps echoes the style of the designer as a young Italian boy thrown into the fashion zone of freedom.
Burberry's famous check took centre stage.
© Gorunway
What he was unlikely to have understood then - or now - is the complex British class system. Such are the peculiarities of the, albeit fading, class system, that some Brits may still feel that a stained and patched-up beige Burberry raincoat, with its faded check lining, is a signal of aristocratic class. Queen Elizabeth wears one on horseback with her Hermèsscarf.
Burberry ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2020.
© Gorunway
Tisci’s vision is much broader than that. And so it should be. But unlike his design predecessor Christopher Bailey, by turning his back completely on Burberry’s country look of the entire 20th century, the current designer has created a new world.
Bella Hadid on the runway Burberry.
© Getty Images
The brown leather coat with a big furry collar that opened the 108 piece show swiftly turned into the game of checks that ran throughout for both sexes.
The patterns competed with pure white outfits (chauffeur and private jet required); silver dresses; and a leopard print that looked fun and fresh for this legacy brand. Add sky blue or olive green as colour accents.
Burberry is certainly viewed as an international super brand - although it now has to get throughChina's shut down following the coronavirus outbreak.
Mariacarla Boscono and Frankie Rayder backstage at Burberry.
© Gareth Cattermole/BFC
But the full dramatic show, with the famous both on stage(the Hadid sisters, Bella and Gigi)and in the audience (actor Cate Blanchett, singer FKA Twigs and supermodel Naomi Campbell), did not bring that shiver of excitement and magic that a great show provides.
Burberry ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2020.
© Gorunway
Why, when there were so many splendid, modern outfits? Perhaps because it looked so carefully executed that the wild fire of great fashion was suppressed.
Or maybe Tisci should visit that other England of today, the one that voted for Brexit and where a muddy field would kill off a gorgeous white Burberry coat at the first step.
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